Days 4 - 8: Niagara Falls or Bust!

Friday & Saturday, Sept 24 & 25: Lisbon Park Campground, near Ogdensburg, NY

Lin speaks: Friday was a get acquainted with the campground and a recovery day.  We showered in the morning and headed over to the public library for WiFi access to check our email and update the blog. Then we hit a few stores to get needed supplies. Amazing with the Walmarts, Lowes, etc., that in terms of shopping, every town looks about the same. Kind of sad, except that you know where to go to get what you want.

The weather was windy, windy, windy, and somewhat rainy.  The campground is on the St. Lawrence Seaway and had it been a beautiful sunny day, it would have been a heavenly stay. Around five o’clock we decided to take a walkabout, even though we might blow into the river. We met some scuba guys that were part of a club that were busy preparing for a nighttime float/drift dive. One young man, college age, said that he might be slapping carp, as they swim right into you at night. Further down the beach we saw this strange fish -

Heading back to the trailer, an older guy sitting outside his fifth-wheel called us over, as he noticed we were from Maine. I suspect nothing that goes on in the campground that gets by some of these young-at-heart old-timers.  We met Charlie and Betty from Kingston, Canada, and had a tour of their trailer. They came over the next night to shiver next to our campfire while Don played all the Canadian tunes he could remember. Charlie also gave us some good hints on how to cut our exit time when breaking camp.

Don speaks: Saturday was a tourist day and we visited the Frederic Remington Art Museum in Ogdensburg and the Boldt Castle on Heart Island, part of the 1,000 Islands.  We started with the Remington Museum and were really impressed with the quality of the exhibits – bronzes, paintings and drawings - and the fine old house in which they are exhibited.   I always pictured Remington as a cowboy sort who drew and sculpted works from the life he led.  Turns out he was an overweight New Yorker who failed at his attempt at sheep ranching in Kansas.  However, he had a keen eye for detail and movement that translated into fine Western artwork from observations he made on occasional trips to the frontier as it existed in the late 1800’s.  Many folks got their impressions of western life from the drawings he sold to Harper’s Weekly.  Once he learned about working with clay and bronze, however, sculpture became his passion.  It was amazing to see the differences between the initial castings of some of his works and the later ones.  Detail just melts away in the later castings when Remington wasn’t personally supervising. 

From the Remington Museum, we headed for Alexandria Bay near the 1000 Islands.  We caught a shuttle boat to the Boldt Castle on Heart Island.  The castle is both a wonder of stone construction and a tragic example of lost love.  George Boldt, a wealthy hotel entrepreneur, started building a magnificent castle reminiscent of those in his native Prussia for the love of his life, his wife Louise.  After spending 2.5 million dollars on the construction, he stopped work on the project when Louise died suddenly in 1904.  The castle was left unfinished and falling into ruin until it was sold to the 1000 Islands Bridge Authority in 1973.  They have been working steadily to finish the castle and have done a wonderful job.  There is still a lot left to do, but the grandeur of the place is magnificent.  It’s a reminder of craftsmanship and opulence that is rarely seen today.  But would I trade our place on Great Pond for the Boldt Castle?  Not a chance.

Sunday, Sept. 26^th - Travel Day to Niagara Falls on the Canadian Side:

Lin speaks: We were up at 6:00 AM and left Lisbon at 8:30. That was a half hour better camp breakdown than last time, but I still questioned why it took so long as Don had hooked the camper to the truck the night before and had emptied the tanks. Then we remembered that we had a leak under the bathroom sink and that cleanup/fix ate up at least a half hour of the two and a half hour exit. Geez. Our goal was to get to Niagara Falls at a decent hour, which we did!

We arrived at Riverside Park Campground at 3:00 – a perfect landing time.  Cecelia, the campground owner, asked us if we wanted a river-view site and ended up giving us the best site in the campground. We were giddy happy with this campground, with the Niagara River across the street and a fifty mile bike path running along the river. We quickly set up camp and hopped on our bikes. I forgot how much fun it is to ride, as it has been years since we’ve used our bikes. It really is true; you do not forget how to ride a bike. (“Just like riding a bike.") The next thing I knew, I was zooming along the path with the wind whooshing by, river on one side and magnificent homes/mansions on the left.

Returning to the campground and gingerly climbing off our bikes (my, those bike seats are tough and Don's is the worst) we settled outside the camper in our red lounge chairs with a celebratory bottle of Silver Oak wine. (Thanks for the retirement wine, Solon folks!) A quick leftover dinner of spaghetti and meatballs and we hopped back in the truck for a drive to the Falls. 

We were tired, but had been told there would be fireworks tonight and that was a motivator to go. It turned out that the summer fireworks were over and the Falls were dark. Where were the lights? Many people were milling around and then "pow" the lights came on! What a rush --- we were viewing Niagara Falls at night!!! We were here and it was beyond breathtaking. You can't really describe the emotional magnitude of this experience, as you just needed to be here. What a phenomenal day - perfect campground and Niagara Falls - wowie!

Monday, Sept. 27th: That night we slept for ten hours, so I guess we had really put in a long day yesterday. It was threatening rain later in the afternoon, so after a shower and leisurely breakfast of blueberry pancakes and bacon, we returned to the Falls.

Purchasing the "Adventure Pass" we decided to do half of the attractions today and more tomorrow. We started off with the 4-D movie, "Fury of the Falls." We expected a historical National Geographic type movie, but it was more Disneyesque. The "4" of the 4-D was snow and buckets of water coming down on you, plus the shaking, booming and rolling of lightning and thunderstorms during the progression of the Ice Age to today to form the Falls. I'm sure some little tykes were having some wild nightmares later that evening. 

After putting on our second water-protecting ponchos, we headed down into the tunnels under Horseshoe Falls. We walked a third of the way behind the Falls, about 125 feet deep down. Here you could hear the thunder of the Falls and see the power up close. The tunnel was built in 1944 and we hoped they really knew what they were doing and it hadn't eroded too much.

Now it was time to grab some nourishment and we found the perfect place for a beer and burger. The Edgewater Restaurant was directly across from the Falls, so we sat for an hour or so and relished the view. I tried so hard to imprint this experience on my brain, but I think photos, videos and memories of the Falls will have to suffice. It was truly an over-the-top day!!!

Day 3 & 4 - NH to Ogdensburg, NY

Don speaks:

Wednesday was hiking day in New Hampshire's White Mountains.  Weather forecast called for sunny and 80 degrees.  Linda wanted to see some waterfalls and I was in the mood for a beaver stream and a mountain pond.  As luck would have it, both were available in the White Mountains National Forest about 15 miles from our campground.  We got underway at the crack of noon and headed for Glen Ellis Falls.

Glen Ellis Falls are just a couple miles from Mt. Washington on Rt. 16.  We parked on the east side of the road and walked through the pedestrian tunnel to get to the stream on the other side.  I wondered if the local wildlife had figured out that this tunnel is a much safer way to cross the road.  We didn't run into any deer, moose or bears.  Maybe we should have gone back at night and done a critter stake-out. 

The path to the Falls was short and somewhat steep,  but the forest sprites made it easy by putting in 152 stone steps and a hand rail.  Once at the bottom, the falls were beautiful.  They tumbled 66 feet from the stream above into a beautiful pool at the base.  The water was as clear as glass as it continued its way on down the mountain.  I wonder how many other sites in the White Mountains are similar to this, but with no steps or handrails? 

When we finished admiring the falls, it hit Linda that she would have to climb back up those 152 steps.  I let her know that I would be behind her, cheering all the way.  I don't think she was too impressed by my support.  We got started and, to my surprise, she sprinted from the bottom step to the top.  NOT!  However, she did get back up with only a few rest stops and groans.  About then, I was getting hungry and suggested going somewhere to eat our lunch.  Linda needed another waterfall fix and cast her vote for the Crystal Cascade near the Pinkham Notch Visitor's Center. 

The path to the Crystal Cascade starts behind the Visitor's Center.  It's a gentle, rocky walk beside another one of the clear mountain streams that run through much of the White Mountain National Forest.  The soothing sounds from the stream made an interesting counterpoint to the grumbling of my stomach as we headed toward the second waterfall of the day.  I didn't have long to wait as the bridge over the Cascade came into view after about 10 minutes of walking. 

The Crystal Cascade is a series of small waterfalls descending over a few hundred yards of stream.  The sound is delightful bringing to mind a number of different-sized crystal wine glasses being tapped with small silver spoons.  The many pools formed by the chain of small falls looked like ideal trout habitats and I would have loved to try my luck at catching our lunch.  However, I made do with the ham and swiss sandwich that Lin had packed.  Our seats on the rocks overlooking the stream were perfectly positioned for enjoying the view.  Entertainment was provided by a red squirrel that really wanted something to eat, but wasn't quite brave enough to take the Tostito out of my hand.

Fortified with the wilderness lunch, it was time for the long distance hike of the day to the Lost Pond somewhere across the road from the Visitor's Center.  We knew that this jaunt would be a challenge right from the start - no wimpy pedestrian tunnel.  We had to dash across Rt. 16 just like all the other wild creatures in the mountains.  Actually, there wasn't any traffic coming so we just sort of ambled across the road. 

The trail to the Lost Pond starts off next to a beaver dam then continues past a beaver lodge and on to another beaver dam.  At no time did we actually see any beavers, but I imagine that all changes after dark. 

After passing the beaver area, the path started climbing toward the pond.  As we climbed, we saw a big tree growing over a rock that was unlike anything I'd ever seen. 

Hard to imagine how many years this tree has been there.  Continuing the hike, we went through woods and rocky areas that went away from the stream where we had started.  About the time that I started to think that maybe the pond was lost again, we saw it ahead of us.  It's a pretty place with impressive views of Mt. Washington from the shore.  Or they would have been impressive views of the mountain if it hadn't been shrouded in clouds.  Nevertheless, we found a nice rock to sit on and enjoy the peacefulness of the pond.

After a brief rest, we headed back down the trail and made it back to the truck.  We saw some beautiful places and got some good exercise in the process.  You know, this retirement traveling is really kind of nice.

Linda speaks:

Yesterday, Thursday, Sept 23rd, our goal was to leave Gorham, NH early for the long 7-hour trip to Ogdensburg, NY. We were up at 6:00, but never really got "on the road" until 10:00! We need to improve our timing  on breaking down camp. The snafu this time was a low pressure tire that needed to be checked. [Encyclopedia Don just told me that "snafu" is an old WWII acronym. Do you know what s.n.a.f.u. stands for?]

We drove across Vermont and what a gorgeous State! Homes were beautifully maintained and all yards were well-manicured. No Maine "Beans" in sight. The farms with big red barns, the rolling green hills and the outstanding fall leaf colors made for a scenic and pleasant ride.  Lunch break was a quick pull-off on one of the VT roads. I mentioned to Don that I needed a bathroom break. He said, "I don't know where we'll find a rest stop on this stretch of road." I gently reminded him that we had our own private potty right behind the truck!

We crossed into NY at the Canadian border near Montreal and then dropped down westward to the St. Lawrence Seaway. We pulled into Lisbon Beach Campground around 5:30, tired, hungry and weary.

After setting up the trailer, we headed out for my romantic 63rd birthday dinner. Don really knows how to woo a gal. Oscar's is a sports bar, recommended by the camp director. We had beer ($1.50 a pint), a pizza and wings. It was absolutely perfect! Returning to Four-Bit, we had Boston Cream pie, with PT as part of the party. Thanks for your calls, cards, emails, birthday wishes and gifts. I felt truly well celebrated.

Day 2 - Gorham, NH

The best laid plans ....  Did you notice that we are not in Vermont?

We did not get on the road yesterday until after 2 pm. Weren't we aiming for 10 or 11? Around 1:00 we decided to have a PB&J sandwich (haven't had one of those in years) and review all of our exit lists. Don had put PT out in the trailer for a pre-trip potty break. Before sitting down for lunch, he went out to check on her. Fifteen minutes later he is still not back in the house. I went out to the trailer and he said he couldn't find the cat! Four-Bit, the trailer, is small, only 21 feet, so losing a cat is very strange. Don had a flashlight and was checking every nook and cranny, but no PT. I finally started digging behind the sofa, which was loaded with stuff, and saw one eye staring up at me under the piles. Guess PT was not really excited about going camping....

As it got later, Don thought maybe we should wait until Tuesday morning to leave. I voted to just get on the road. Learning "flexibility" while traveling seemed like the message of the moment. I pulled out Woodall's Campground Guide and started looking for places in NH to camp, since going four or five hours to VT seemed like a stretch. When you're already tired, pulling into a campground to set up at 7 or 8 pm seemed like a poor idea. This also was our first solo trip, as our other three test-run trips were with friends - the Floyds and the Burhans.

Woodall's directed us to Timberland Campground in Gorham, NH, just 5 miles over the Maine border. We pulled in and started setting up at 5:30ish. Good call, as we were laughing and almost punch-drunk as we set up camp. You know how Winnie-the-Pooh keeps saying, "Think, think, think." That's what it felt like --- first we do what? Stablizers down, chocks under wheels, turn on the water, bring in the cat --- what order???

Four-Bit got settled in finally and we headed out to Mr. Pizza - great place with the Cracker Jack Lounge. After a martini, a toast or two, and a good fresh fried haddock and Maine shrimp dinner, we felt sooooo much better!

This morning we figured out why the furnace quit - air in the propane hose when switching tanks - and how to get the cable TV to work - tightening campground cable connection.  We're still learning all the in's and out's of living in Four-Bit. Mighty chilly last night, so I'm glad the furnace is back on. Don remembered that the ducted air conditioner also has a heat strip, so we were toasty.

We met a nice recently retired couple camping behind us from Maryland. They left for Acadia today. We chatted for awhile giving them pointers on what to see in Maine and then we scurried out for our big tourist adventure of the day - driving the Mount Washington Auto Road.

Mt. Washington is the highest peak in the northeast. The auto road is a very winding 8 miles up to a top elevation 6288 feet. At the base it says, "If you have a problem with heights, you may not want to do this." Don does not like heights, but what the heck. By the time we got to the top, both of us had sweaty hands. This only lasted for a few minutes, as it was 33 degrees with 40 mile an hour winds! The mountain has 100 days per year with hurricane force winds. In 1934 the wind on the mountain set a record speed of 239 miles per hour, the strongest of any land record on earth. Winter of 1968 & 69, there was 74 feet of snow! How lucky for us that it was a clear day with visibility of 100 miles. Tomorrow they are predicting sleet, high winds and maybe snow on the top. Today is the last day of summer, so I guess that says it all.

Before closing today, we do want to thank all our friends and family for your prayers and well-wishes as we head out on this journey.

Time to Leave

We're up early and hoping to get on the road by 10 or 11:00.  We've been packing, cleaning, organizing, winterizing the home, etc., for what seems like weeks. The lists and chores are endless.  Who would have thought it was this hard to get it all together? I asked PT, the kitty, if she is packed and ready to hit the road. She said she had her underwear and fur coat on and that I had to do the rest. She just keeps napping and will be the only one rested up for the trip!

With many farewells and good wishes from dear friends, we will drive about four hours today to Waterbury, VT. The adventure begins.....